Roast Pork with Garlic and Rosemary

Roast pork at its most basic. If you want even more garlicky flavor, cut a clove of garlic into tiny slivers and, using a thin-bladed knife, insert them into the meat. You can do this a day or two in advance; if you do, rub the roast all over with salt too and keep it refrigerated, covered loosely with a towel or wax paper.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary leaves or

1 teaspoon dried rosemary

1/4 teaspoon cayenne (optional)

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon minced garlic

One 3- to 4-pound pork loin roast, bone in, one 2- to 3-pound boneless roast, or a similar-sized portion of shoulder or fresh ham

11/2 cups dry white wine or stock , plus more if necessary

1 tablespoon butter (optional)

• Heat the oven to 450 F. Mix a liberal amount of salt and pepper with the rosemary, cayenne if you’re using it, sugar, and garlic and rub it all over the roast. Put the meat in a roasting pan (use a rack if the roast is boneless, but don’t bother if the bone is still in) and put in the oven. Roast, undisturbed, for 15 minutes.
• Pour about 1/2 cup of the wine over the roast; lower the heat to 325 F. Continue to roast, adding about 1/4 cup of liquid every 15 minutes or so. If the liquid accumulates on the bottom of the pan, use it to baste; if not, add more.
• Start checking the roast after 11/4 hours of total cooking time (it’s likely to take about 11/2 hours). When it is done—an instant-read thermometer will register 145–150 F—transfer it to a warm platter. Put the roasting pan on the stove over 1 or 2 burners over mediumhigh heat. If there is a great deal of liquid in it, reduce it to about 3/4 cup, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to release any brown bits that have accumulated.
• If the pan is dry, add 1 cup of liquid and follow the same process. When the sauce has reduced some, stir in the butter if you like, slice the roast, and serve it with the sauce.

MAKES: 6 or more servings

TIME: 1 1/2 to 2 hours, largely unattended