Roast Poussins

A poussin is sometimes called a “squab chicken,” but it’s not to be confused with an actual squab . It’s a young chicken, 4 to 6 weeks old, and thus very small. Simpler cooking is better: roasting lets the sweet taste come through. However, you’ll need several birds for a dinner party.

Four 11⁄4- to 11⁄2-pound poussins, giblets and necks removed (see Note)

16 thyme sprigs

12 garlic cloves, unpeeled

Butcher’s twine

4 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1 tablespoon peanut oil

• Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375 F.
• Place a poussin on your work surface, then place 4 thyme sprigs and 3 garlic cloves inside the large body cavity. Truss the bird with butcher’s twine .Gently massage a quarter of the salt, pepper, and nutmeg into the skin. Set aside and repeat with the other birds.
• Heat a large 12- or 14-inch, oven-safe, heavy duty skillet over medium heat. Swirl in the peanut oil, then add the poussins breast side up. Cook for 3 minutes, checking occasionally to make sure the skin’s not sticking. Turn and continue cooking until browned on all sides, turning several times with metal tongs, about 7 more minutes.
• Place the skillet in the oven and bake, basting with pan juices about every 10 minutes until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh registers 165 F (our preference) or 180 F (the USDA recommendation), 40 to 50 minutes. Let stand at room temperature for 5 minutes before carving; discard the thyme and garlic from inside the birds.
• Note: Occasionally, you can find larger poussins, up to 21⁄2 pounds. However, a four-person dinner party still needs three of these, mostly because of the higher bone-to-meat ratio.

Makes 4 servings