Roasted Thick Fish Fillets or Steaks

Some fish steaks and fillets—especially the triangular fillets from large round fish—are so thick they almost qualify as roasts, which makes them too big to cook by direct heat. Fortunately, the same sear-and-roast technique that works so well on other animals is perfect for large pieces of fish, and it’s faster. Provided you don’t overcook, results are crisp on the outside and juicy inside. And as a bonus, you get a quick little sauce out of the deal. The best tool for this job is an ovenproof skillet—you start on the stove and transfer the whole thing to the oven. And if you don’t have herbs handy, just salt and pepper is fine; or try one of the ideas for rubs in the list at left.

1/2 to 1 cup chopped mixed fresh herbs: parsley, basil, chervil, tarragon, rosemary, chives, marjoram, sage, or whatever you have on hand (use the smaller amount if you’re using stronger herbs)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

About 11/2 pounds large fish fillets (like monkfish, halibut, or tuna) or steaks of any size

1 cup chicken, fish, or vegetable stock , red or white wine, or water, plus a little more if needed

• Heat the oven to 450 F. Mix the herbs with some salt and pepper. Heat a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat for about 2 minutes; add the olive oil. When it’s good and hot, dredge the fish in the herb mixture.
• Brown for a couple of minutes on both sides (or all sides if the roast is triangular). Add the liquid to the pan and put it, uncovered, in the oven.
• Roast until the fish is tender, 20 to 30 minutes, turning once or twice (1-inch-thick steaks of most other fish will take 5 or 10 minutes less). Regardless of the thickness, the fillet will still be firm and juicy when done but will have turned opaque inside; a thin-bladed knife will pass through it fairly easily.
• Transfer the fish to a warm platter. If the pan juices are a little thin, reduce a bit; if they’re too thick, add a little more stock or water and cook over medium heat for a minute or two. Serve the fish with the sauce spooned over.

Roasted Whole Fish.
• Works for small and large fish; the size is limited only by the size of your pan: Grease a roasting pan with a little olive oil and lay the fish in the bottom. Cut 3 or 4 parallel diagonal gashes in both sides of the fish, almost down to the bone. Rub the fish with some more oil (you’ll need more than 2 tablespoons for all this) and sprinkle the inside with salt and pepper and half the herbs; sprinkle the outside with more salt and pepper.
• Roast the fish until it releases easily from the pan and the skin is crisp, 15 to 20 minutes or more for larger fish. Lift the fish out of the pan and add the liquid, scraping up any browned bits. Return the fish to the pan and roast until opaque but still juicy, another 15 minutes or so, again depending on the size. Add more liquid to the pan if it looks too dry. Serve with the pan juices, sprinkled with the remaining herbs.

Roasted Clams, Oysters, or Mussels.
• Put the mollusks in a pan large enough to hold them comfortably. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, drizzle with the olive oil, and pour the liquid over all. Put in the oven and roast, shaking the pan as needed, until the shells start to open, 10 to 20 minutes, depending on the size of the mollusks. Transfer those that have opened to serving bowls and return the pan to the oven, along with a splash more liquid if necessary. When all are opened, sprinkle with the herbs, pour the pan juices over all, and serve.

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 30 to 45 minutes, depending on thickness