Salt Cod in Tomato Sauce

Salting fish is one of the oldest ways to preserve it, and salt cod—variously known as baccalà, bacalao, and stockfish (slightly different, but not much) is a wonderful example of an old technique that lives on not because it’s needed but because it’s loved—like prosciutto and pickles. Mild, with a firm flake, it’s versatile enough for any number of dishes—once you reconstitute and desalinate it, that is. But salt cod is worth the work.

1 pound boneless salt cod

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

3 cloves garlic, lightly smashed

3 anchovies, or to taste

One 28-ounce can whole plum tomatoes, drained and chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons drained capers

1/2 cup pitted black or green olives

Hot red pepper flakes, to taste

Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

• Soak the cod for 12 to 24 hours in cold water to cover; change the water routinely, every hour or so (except when you’re sleeping) being ideal. You can hasten this process by simmering the cod in water for 5 minutes, then rinsing it and changing the water and repeating this process until most of the saltiness has abated (taste a bit to find out). This sometimes takes four or five changes of water, however.
• Put the desalinated fish in a large pot with water to cover. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat so the water simmers gently and cook for about 15 minutes, or until reasonably tender—salt cod never gets soft—and not too salty. (Sometimes so much salt is removed during the soaking and cooking process that you must add salt to the dish in which you’re using the fish.) At this point, you may store the salt cod, wrapped and refrigerated, for a couple of days.
• Combine the oil and garlic in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the anchovies and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is lightly golden and the anchovies are broken up, less than 5 minutes. Raise the heat to medium-high and add the tomatoes, along with a little salt and pepper. Cook for a few minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes become saucy.
• Add the capers, olives, red pepper flakes, and cod. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally and gently, until the cod is hot. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then garnish with parsley and serve.

MAKES: 4 servings, 6 over pasta

TIME: About 24 hours, largely unattended; 30 minutes with prepared salt cod