Sauteed Soft-Shell Crabs, Four Ways

Soft-shell crabs contain so much moisture that they’re just about impossible to overcook, and they cook so quickly they’re difficult to undercook. Plus, they have both built-in crispness from the shell (which is delicious) and a sweet, briny flavor. So they need no further adornment, especially if you make the buttery variation. But you can always make a Five-Minute Drizzle Sauce
; transfer the crabs to a 200 F oven and use the same pan. Other protein you can use: shrimp or boneless chicken breasts or thighs (just cook them about twice as long).

Neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn, as needed

2 eggs

2 cups milk

1 cup cornmeal

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon cayenne, or more to taste

Salt

4 large soft-shell crabs, cleaned

Lemon wedges for serving

• Put about 1/4 inch of oil in a deep skillet broad enough to accommodate the crabs over medium heat.
• Beat the eggs and milk together in a bowl. Combine the cornmeal, flour, cayenne, and a large pinch of salt on a plate.
• When the oil is hot—a pinch of flour will sizzle— dip the crabs in the egg mixture, then dredge in the cornmeal mixture, shaking to remove the excess. Put in the skillet; adjust the heat so the crabs bubble gently but not furiously in the oil.
• When the bottoms are nicely browned, 3 to 5 minutes, turn the crabs and brown the other side, about 3 minutes more; the crabs will be quite firm when done.
• Sprinkle with a little more salt if you like and serve with lemon wedges.

Simplest Sautéed Soft-Shell Crabs.
• Omit the egg, milk, and cornmeal. In Step 2, when the oil is hot, dredge the crabs in the seasoned flour, shake a bit to remove the excess, and cook as directed.

Breaded Sautéed Soft-Shell Crabs.
• Omit the cornmeal and use 1 cup bread crumbs—panko are nice, or use fresh crumbs—or fine cracker crumbs (try graham crackers for a fun switch): In Step 1, set up the seasoned flour in one bowl, the egg mixture in another, and the crumbs in another. When the oil is hot, dredge the crabs first in the flour, then in the egg mixture, then in the crumbs, patting them to make them adhere. Proceed with the recipe.

Buttery Sautéed Soft-Shell Crabs.
• Use butter to cook the crabs; just let it melt in the pan in Step 2. You could use as much as a stick. Be sure to pour the pan juices over the crabs when you serve them. Garnish with chopped fresh parsley if you like.

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 30 minutes