Sauteed Sweetbreads

Preparing sweetbreads—which is the general name for the thymus glands and pancreas—is a little work, but the reward is meat that is not only crisp on the outside but downright creamy inside.

Salt

1 tablespoon vinegar

2 pairs veal sweetbreads, about 2 pounds total

3 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil

All-purpose flour for dredging

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup dry white wine

Freshly squeezed lemon juice

Minced fresh parsley leaves for garnish

• Bring a pot of water large enough to hold the sweetbreads to a boil. Add about 11/2 teaspoons salt and the vinegar.
• Add the sweetbreads to the boiling water and adjust the heat so that the water bubbles steadily but not furiously. Cook for 10 minutes.
• Drain, then plunge the sweetbreads into a bowl of ice water or run under cold water until cool. Pick off any bits of the membrane that are loose, but don’t worry about it too much; they’re quite tender.
• Dry the sweetbreads with paper towels and put them on a plate. Cover with another plate and a couple of pounds of weight - some cans or a rock or two. Put in the refrigerator for about an hour and up to a day.
• When you’re ready to cook, cut the sweetbreads into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Put the butter or oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.
• When the butter is melted or the oil is hot, dredge the sweetbread slices in the flour one at a time, shaking off excess flour.
• Saute the slices for 2 or 3 minutes per side, or until golden brown and crisp, sprinkling well with salt and pepper as they cook.
• When they’re done, put them on a warm platter. Add the wine to the skillet and cook, stirring, until reduced to a tablespoon or two, about 1 minute.
• Add a squeeze of lemon juice and pour over the sweetbreads; garnish and serve immediately.

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 2 hours, somewhat unattended