Savory Cheese Puffs

These light-as-air cheese puffs are the perfect accompaniment for wine tastings or drinks. These puffs also make an excellent case for a variety of seafood or vegetable fillings. A Burgundian specialty is to fill the gougères with calf kidneys sautéed in red wine. Gougères are at their best when served right from the oven, but they may be cooked in advance, stored in an airtight container, and reheated as needed. CHOUX PA S T E (PÂTE À CHOUX) :

4 ounces [110 g] chilled unsalted butter, cut into small dice

Pinch of salt

1 cup [240 mL] water

1 cup [240 mL] all-purpose flour

4 large eggs, at room temperature

1⁄2 cup [120 mL] Gruyère cheese, grated

Pinch of grated nutmeg

1⁄4 cup [60 mL] Gruyère cheese, cut into small dice

Pinch of garlic powder

ADVANCE PREPARATION
• All advance preparation may be found in the ingredient list.

PREPA RATION OF THE CHOUX PASTE
• Bring the butter, salt, and water in a heavy saucepan to a boil. Remove from the heat, add the flour all at once, and vigorously beat the mixture with a wooden spoon.
• Return the pan to the heat and beat until the mixture holds together and cleans the sides of the pan, about 2 minutes.
• Transfer the dough to the bowl of a mixer with a paddle attachment and mix at low speed. Add the eggs, one at a time, allowing each egg to be completely absorbed into the dough before adding the next. Increase the mixer speed for a few seconds after each egg has been absorbed.
• Add the grated cheese and the nutmeg, then carefully fold in the diced cheese and the garlic.

C O O K I N G M E T H O D
• 6. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a 1⁄2-inch [1-cm] plain or star tip. Pipe the dough into 2-inch [5-cm] mounds about 3 inches [8 cm] apart on parchment-lined baking sheets (or carefully drop spoonfuls by hand, using moistened fingers).
• Bake at 425°F [220°C] for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to 375°F [190°C] and bake for 30 minutes without opening the oven. When done, the puffs will be golden brown, light and airy, with moist, but cooked (not doughy) centers that are hollow.

S E R V I C E
• Serve 3 gougères per person on a small plate.

MAKES TWENTY-FOUR 2-INCH [5-CM] PUFFS