Savory Custard Soup

This is an unusual soup: although on top it looks like a solid custard, it is not sweet, and at the bottom, there is plenty of hot stock. This is usually served for an evening meal, especially in the winter. The ingredients given here are the most commonly used in Japan, but depending on the season or locale, other items can be substituted

1⁄2 cup chicken breast, diced

1 tsp Japanese-style soy sauce

1 tsp sake or mirin (sweet cooking wine) (optional)

4 small raw shrimp, briefly blanched in hot water until they turn pink (about 30 seconds)

12 fresh ginkgo nuts, shelled and peeled (or substitute broad bean kernels, peeled, or 24 green peas)

12 stalks trefoil (or substitute watercress or flat-leaf parsley, chopped)

21⁄2 cups dashi or good chicken stock, degreased

1⁄2 tsp salt

1 TBS soy sauce

1 TBS mirin or sake (or 1 tsp sugar)

4 eggs, lightly beaten until just mixed

4 ceramic cups (teacups are fine, even better if they have no handles)

foil or plastic wrap, 4 sheets large enough to cover cups

• Marinate chicken in soy sauce and sake or mirin for 15–20 minutes. Drain and discard marinade.
• Into the cups, place chicken, shrimp, and ginkgo nuts or substitutes.
• To prepare custard, in a bowl, mix thoroughly dashi or stock with salt, soy sauce, and mirin or sugar.
• Slowly add eggs, mixing well without raising bubbles. Strain egg mixture carefully into cups, leaving a 1⁄2-inch clear space to the top.
• Top with chopped greens; cover tightly with foil or plastic wrap. Set cups in a steamer; steam over medium heat for 20 minutes.
• Alternatively, arrange a grid inside a wok. Set cups on grid. Pour hot water in wok well below the level of the grid and cups. Cover wok and let water come to a gentle boil. Steam as directed above.
• Serve at once.