Heat the oil in a large, heavy pot over high heat until it¬†just starts to smoke. Add 3 kernels of popping corn and,¬†when they pop, add the rest of the popping corn. Cover¬†the pot and shake gently until the corn starts to pop.
Shake vigorously over the heat until the popping¬†subsides, cracking the lid occasionally to allow the steam¬†to escape. (Trapped steam makes the protein in the corn¬†toughen.)
Remove from the heat and pour the popcorn into a¬†serving bowl. Drizzle the butter over the top and toss¬†with tongs or two butter knives to coat evenly. Divide¬†the popcorn into six bowls and sprinkle one type of salt¬†over each (see right). Serve immediately.
PAPOHAKU WHITE: a flavor combination of super-buttered¬†movie theater popcorn, amusement park caramel corn,¬†and something you might nibble on in the plush¬†shadows of the Ritz Bar in Paris.
AMABITO NO MOSHIO: the savory one-upmanship of pasta¬†speckled with Parmesan cheese, minus the pasta¬†Parmesan: the Platonic form of umami.
FLEUR DE SEL DE CAMARGUE: the one-salt remedy for¬†impromptu cocktail parties when you forgot the cheese,¬†fruit, and prosciutto; lavished with sweet cream butter,¬†and speckled with fleur de sel de Camargue, popcorn¬†radiates your love and hospitality.
KALA NAMAK FINE: it‚Äôs like trying to eat scrambled eggs off¬†a subwoofer of a surround-sound movie about Mount¬†Vesuvius erupting over the cowering residents of¬†Pompeii. Envelop yourself in the exotic sensations of ¬†faraway lands ‚Ä¶ as they are being destroyed.
IBURI-JIO CHERRY SMOKED SEA SALT: flavors hover between the¬†animate world and the eternal brightness of the¬†elements, like stepping from an Arctic blizzard into a¬†brothel.
BLACK TRUFFLE SALT: nature‚Äôs contraband in snackable form.¬†Lick your fingers, don‚Äôt bite them.