Seared Shad Roe with Smoky Lentils
Lentils:
- 2 ounces thinly sliced smoked bacon, cut crosswise into ½-inch thick pieces
- ½ small carrot, peeled and chopped into ½-inch dice
- ½ celery stalk, peeled and chopped into ½-inch dice
- 3 shallots, chopped into ½-inch dice
- 1 garlic clove, minced
- ½ cup French green lentils (le Puy), rinsed and picked over for stones
- 2 bay leaves
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- ¼ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
- 4 cups water
- ½ cup dry white wine
- 1 small onion, sliced ¼ inch thick
- 1 celery stalk, peeled and sliced ¼ inch thick
- 2 sprigs thyme
- 10 peppercorns
- 2 bay leaves
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 2 pairs shad roe (about ½ pound each)
- About ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
- 7 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 shallot, thinly sliced
- 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
- 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
- ¼ pound bitter greens, such as arugula or chicory
Instructions:
Shad roe are usually sold in “pairs, “ or “sets, “attached pink lobes or sacs containing a firm mass of eggs. Cooked, the roe has a rich, distinctively nutty flavor and silky texture.
- In a heavy saucepan, cook the bacon over medium heat until it has rendered its fat but is not yet crispy. Add the carrot, celery, shallots, and garlic and cook until they just begin to brown around the edges but are still crisp, about 3 minutes. Transfer the vegetables and bacon to a bowl, leaving the fat in the pan.
- Add the lentils and bay leaves to the saucepan. Add enough water to cover the lentils by an inch. Bring to a boil, then immediately lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes; add additional water if necessary while the lentils are cooking.
- Return the vegetables and bacon to the pan and continue cooking until the lentils and vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 more minutes. The liquid should be almost completely absorbed, with a hint of soupiness.
- Season with salt and pepper and stir in the thyme and chopped parsley; discard the bay leaves. Keep warm.
- To poach the roe, put the water, white wine, onion, celery, thyme sprigs, peppercorns, and bay leaves in a medium saucepan. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 15 minutes. Gently slip the pairs of roe into the liquid and poach for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and allow the pairs to cool in the poaching liquid.
- When the shad roe is cool, remove from the liquid.
- Trim off any dangling membranes, taking care not to rip the membrane that holds the eggs together. Separate each pair into 2 lobes. Season with salt and pepper. Dredge in flour.
- Distribute the lentils among four warm plates. Keep warm.
- Heat 6 tablespoons of the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. As soon as the foam subsides, add the lobes and sear on each side until golden, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the roe to the plates with the lentils.
- Add the shallot to the pan and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the lemon juice and capers and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper, add the parsley, and pour over the roe.
- Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter to the pan, increase the heat to high, and add the greens. Season with salt and pepper and toss until they’re slightly wilted. Divide the greens among the plates and serve immediately.