Sesame Spareribs

Here you start by poaching the ribs and finish by cooking them in their own juice with a kind of dry-roasting in the fat and juices exuded by the ribs themselves, along with a dose of strong seasonings. It all results in ribs that are dark, glossy, and so tender that just a tug of the teeth will pull the meat off the bone. If possible, ask your butcher to cut the ribs into two-inch lengths, which will make them easier to cook (and to eat). Other cuts and meats you can use: short ribs (which will take considerably longer to cook in Step 2).

3 to 4 pounds spareribs, cut into 2-inch sections

2 tablespoons chopped garlic

1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds

1/3 cup sugar

5 nickel-sized slices fresh ginger

1/2 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons dark sesame oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup chopped scallion

• Put a large skillet that can hold the ribs in one layer over high heat and add the ribs and 1 cup water. Boil, turning the ribs occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated, about 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and brown the ribs in their own fat, turning occasionally, for about 5 minutes
• Add the garlic and half the sesame seeds and stir; cook for just 30 seconds. Add the sugar, ginger, soy, half the sesame oil, and another 1/2 cup water; increase the heat so the mixture bubbles steadily and cook, turning occasionally, until the liquid is thick and dark. If the ribs are tender at this point, they’re ready. If not, add another 1/2 cup water and repeat the process. (You can cook in advance up to this point; cover and refrigerate before proceeding if you like.)
• Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding salt if necessary but sprinkling with a good amount of pepper. Add the remaining sesame seeds and sesame oil. Stir once, garnish with the scallion, and serve.

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 45 to 60 minutes