Shrimp Burgers

The most successful alternative burgers deliver both superior flavor and interesting texture: These burgers easily exceed those requirements. Since shrimp contains natural gelatin, you can incorporate a considerable amount of flavorings without the burgers’ falling apart. Grill these over a well-oiled rack, broil, or pan-cook in a little oil or butter. I took an Asian flavoring route here, but that’s easy enough to change: Omit and substitute what you like (just don’t increase the quantity of vegetables or your burger might indeed fall apart). Try small amounts of herbs—tarragon, mint, basil, chives, or chervil—or Chile Paste
or curry powder
Other seafood you can use: scallops, salmon, or mackerel (handle either gently or mix with some shrimp as “glue”).

1 large clove garlic, peeled

1 dried or fresh chile, seeded, or more to taste

1 inch fresh ginger, more or less, roughly chopped

About 11/2 pounds shrimp, peeled

1/4 cup roughly chopped shallot, scallion, or red onion

1/4 cup roughly chopped red or yellow bell pepper (optional)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, or to taste

Neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn, as needed Toasted buns (optional)

Lime wedges or ketchup for serving

• Heat a charcoal or gas grill or the broiler until moderately hot and put the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. (If pan-cooking, wait until the burgers are formed to proceed.)
• Combine the garlic, chile, ginger, and a third of the shrimp in a food processor and process to a purée, stopping the machine to scrape down the sides of the container as necessary. Add the remaining shrimp along with the shallot, bell pepper, some salt and pepper, and the cilantro and pulse as many times as is necessary to chop the shrimp, but not too finely. Shape the mixture into 4 burgerlike patties.
• Brush the grill or the patties lightly with oil and place them on the grill or under the broiler. (Now is the time to heat the pan for stovetop cooking, add the oil, and, when it’s hot, add the burgers.) Cook undisturbed until a dark crust appears on the bottom and the burgers release fairly easily with a spatula, about 5 minutes. Turn and cook until opaque throughout, 3 to 4 minutes on the other side. Serve on buns or not, as you like, with lime or ketchup

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 30 minutes