Smoked Fish soup

The classic smoked fish soup is Scottish cullen skink, made with smoked haddock. Frankly, though, you can use just about any kind of smoked fish you have to hand, even oily fish such as kippers and mackerel. Indeed, the leftovers of a fish pie, thinned with a little milk and stock, warmed and blitzed in a blender, would make a fine alternative. If you are using leftover cooked fish and you don’t have any of your own fish stock , it is worth buying some from your local fishmonger or supermarket. Like all soups, this one freezes well.

• Heat a little oil or butter in a pan, add the onion and cook until softened. If you are using raw fish, add it to the pan, cover with water and simmer for 2-3 minutes. Remove the fish, allow it to cool, then remove the skin and check for bones. Break the flesh into large pieces and keep separate. The liquid in the pan forms the stock for the soup.
• If you are using cooked fish, skin it, break the flesh into rough chunks and put on one side. Pour the fish stock over your onion base and bring to a slow simmer.
• Stir the mashed potato into the simmering liquor and whisk until smooth. Add the milk and then add the fish. Simmer very gently for 3 minutes maximum, just to heat the fish through. Season to taste and serve each portion topped with a dollop of cream or crème fraîche and some chopped parsley or chives, accompanied by warm crusty bread.