Southern skillet greens

11⁄2 pounds quick-cooking greens, tough stems removed and leaves thinly sliced;

2 thick bacon slices, cut crosswise into 1⁄4-inch strips (about 2 ounces);

1 tablespoon extravirgin olive oil, if needed;

1 small onion, thinly sliced (about 1 cup);

1 garlic clove, finely chopped;

2 teaspoons granulated sugar or firmly packed light brown sugar;

1 small dried hot chile or 1⁄4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes;

Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste;

Hot Pepper Vinegar, for serving.

Fill a large bowl with ice water. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Add 1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt per cup of water. Add the greens and cook until wilted, about 2 minutes. Use a slotted spoon or strainer to immediately transfer into the ice water to stop the cooking and set the color. Drain well and squeeze out as much water as possible. Use soon or cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.
Cook the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat until it renders its fat and is crispy, stirring often, about 10 minutes. If the bacon does not render at least 2 tablespoons of fat, stir in the oil. Stir in the onion and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic, sugar, and chile and cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. (The whole chile will give mild heat and can be discarded before serving. Crushed flakes are a commitment to heat, but the amount can be adjusted to taste.)
Add the greens and cook, tossing with tongs, until glossy and warmed through, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve warm with Hot Pepper Vinegar on the side.