Swiss chard, chickpea and tamarind stew

I always want to add sharpness to slow-cooked, stewy-type dishes, something to break down the heavy seriousness of the dish and introduce a little refreshing edge to it - a bit of humor even. The Italians invented gremolata - chopped garlic, parsley and lemon zest - which they use to finish off the famous ossobuco alla milanese. Here, though, I don’t really need this kind of thing as I include heaps of sharpness in the dish from the start, in the form of tamarind and chard. Still, I can’t resist the temptation of a little lemon juice at the end, just in case; some chile flakes will also give it a kick if you want to add them. This is a perfect main course for when it gets a bit cloudy.

4 tbsp seedless tamarind pulp

1 lb Swiss chard (stalks and leaves), cut into 3/8-inch slices

1 1/2 tsp coriander seeds

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

2 tsp caraway seeds

1 1/2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish

1 tsp tomato paste

one 14-oz can chopped plum tomatoes, with their juices

1 1/2 cups water

1 1/2 tbsp sugar

2 1/2 cups freshly cooked chickpeas (or a 14-oz can, drained)

salt and black pepper

juice of 1 lemon

1 cup Greek yogurt (optional)

generous handful of cilantro leaves

1 3/4 cups short-grain rice

1 1/2 tbsp butter

3 cups water

• Start by whisking the tamarind with about 3 tablespoons of warm water until it dissolves into a paste. Set aside.
• Bring a medium pot of salted water to the boil and blanch the chard for 2 minutes. Drain in a colander.
• Dry-roast the coriander seeds in a small pan over medium heat, then grind to a powder with a mortar and pestle.
• Next, put the onion, caraway seeds and olive oil in a large heavy pan and sauté on medium heat for about 10 minutes, or until the onion is soft and golden. Add the tomato paste and stir as you cook it for about a minute. Add the canned tomatoes, water, sugar, chickpeas, ground coriander, chard and some salt and pepper.
• Strain the tamarind water through a small sieve into the pan. Bring to the boil, then cover with a lid and leave to simmer for about 30 minutes. When ready, the dish should have the consistency of a thick soup. You can adjust this either by adding more water or simmering uncovered so the excess liquid can evaporate. Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed.
• While the stew is cooking, put the rice, butter and a bit of salt in a medium pan and set on a medium heat. Stir to coat the rice with butter. Add the water and bring to the boil, then cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and leave to simmer on a low flame for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave covered for 5 minutes.
• When ready to serve, spoon the rice into shallow soup bowls, creating a large crater in the center. Add the lemon juice to the stew and stir, then put a ladle or two into the middle of the rice in each bowl. Spoon yogurt on top, if you like. Drizzle with oil and finish with plenty of cilantro leaves.

Serves 4