Tom Yum

With a citrusy broth, this Thai favorite is deliciously hot and spicy and sour. Shrimp is traditional, but substitute chicken, tofu, or squid if you like.

1 tablespoon neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn

2 cloves garlic, sliced

1 pound shrimp, peeled, shells reserved

6 cups fish or chicken stock or water

3 stalks lemongrass, trimmed, smashed, and cut into 2-inch lengths

3 inches fresh ginger, sliced and smashed

4 fresh chiles, preferably Thai, or to taste, seeded and chopped, or hot red pepper flakes, to taste

1 tablespoon grated lime zest

1 cup sliced fresh or canned bamboo shoots, drained if canned

2 tablespoons nam pla (Thai fish sauce)

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

2 teaspoons sugar

Chopped fresh cilantro leaves or scallion for garnish

Lime wedges

• Put the oil in a large, deep pot over medium heat.
• When hot, add the garlic and cook for about a minute; add the reserved shrimp shells and cook, stirring occasionally, until they turn pink, about 2 minutes.
• Add the stock, lemongrass, ginger, chiles, and lime zest; raise the heat to high and bring to a boil.
• Lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, for about 20 minutes.
• Carefully strain the stock; return it to the pot and bring to a boil. Add the shrimp and turn the heat to low; cook until the shrimp turn pink, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the nam pla, lime juice, and sugar. Stir, taste, and adjust the seasoning, adding more fish sauce, lime juice, or sugar. Garnish and serve with the lime wedges

.

Hot and Sour Shrimp Soup, Mexican Style.
• Omit the lemongrass, ginger, and nam pla. Add about 1 cup corn kernels (frozen are fine) along with the shrimp.

Hot and Sour Shrimp Soup, Indian Style.
• Omit the lemongrass and nam pla. Add 1 teaspoon each ground cumin, coriander, and turmeric along with the ginger. Add 1 cup green peas (frozen are fine) along with the shrimp.

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 40 minutes