Traditional Apple Pie

I usually don’t thicken the filling for a simple apple pie, but if you don’t want the juices to run, you can add the optional thickener. I also keep spices to a minimum since I’d rather taste the apples; you could safely double their quantity if you like a spicy pie and add a pinch of allspice and/or cloves if you like. Vanilla ice cream or whipped cream is the classic accompaniment, though some enthusiasts swear by a slice of melted cheddar on top.

1/4 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar, or more if you would like a very sweet pie, plus a little for the top of the pie

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Pinch salt

5 or 6 Cortland, McIntosh, or other good cooking apples

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

11/2 tablespoons cornstarch or 2 tablespoons instant tapioca (optional)

2 recipes Flaky Piecrust
bottom crust fitted into a 9-inch pie pan, top crust transferred to a rimless baking sheet, both chilled

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into bits

Milk as needed

• Heat the oven to 450 F. Toss together the sugars, spices, and salt. Peel and core the apples and cut them into 1/2- to 3/4-inch-thick slices. Toss the apples and lemon juice with the sugar-spice mixture, adding the cornstarch or tapioca if you want a less runny pie.
• Pile the apples into the bottom crust, making the pile a little higher in the center than at the sides. Dot with butter. Cover with the top crust. Crimp the edges with a fork or your fingers.
• Put the pie on a baking sheet and brush the top lightly with milk; sprinkle with sugar. Use a sharp paring knife to cut two or three 2-inch-long slits in the top crust to allow steam to escape. Bake for 10 minutes; reduce the heat to 350 F and bake for another 40 to 50 minutes, or until the pie is golden brown. Do not underbake. Cool on a rack before serving warm or at room temperature.

Apple-Pear Pie.
• The essence of autumn: Add 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger or 1 teaspoon ground ginger with the other spices. Use half apples and half pears. Add 2 tablespoons cornstarch or 3 tablespoons instant tapioca if you’re using it.

Dutch Apple Pie.
• Cream poured into the pie—does it get any better? Add 2 tablespoons cornstarch or 3 tablespoons instant tapioca to the mixture. Proceed as directed, making sure to cut a large vent hole in the center of the top crust. About 30 minutes into the baking time, pour 1/2 cup cream into the vent hole and finish baking as directed.

MAKES: One 9-inch pie (about 8 servings)

TIME: About 11/2 hours, plus time to cool