Traditional Bouillabaisse

Every seaside culture has its own fish stew, but bouillabaisse is probably the best known; it’s no more (or less) than a highly seasoned soup made with the day’s catch. So vary this recipe according to what you find at the store—or what you bring home from a day’s fishing.

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

2 medium onions, roughly chopped

1 navel or other orange

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

Big pinch saffron threads (optional)

1 dried chile (like Thai) or a pinch cayenne, or to taste

2 cups chopped tomato (canned is fine; include the juices)

1 to 11/2 pounds monkfish, catfish, or other firm white fish, cut into 1-inch cubes

3 pounds clams, cockles, or mussels, scrubbed

1 to 11/2 pounds scallops or peeled shrimp, cut into bite-sized pieces if necessary

1 to 11/2 pounds cod or other delicate white fish, cut into 6 large chunks

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/2 cup roughly chopped parsley leaves for garnish

Sliced crusty bread for serving

1/2 cup Garlic or Saffron Mayonnaise

• Put the olive oil in a large, deep saucepan over medium heat. When hot, add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, use a vegetable peeler to strip the zest from the orange (save the orange itself for another use). Add the zest, fennel, saffron, and chile and cook for about a minute.
• Add the tomato and 3 cups water and raise the heat to medium-high. When the mixture boils, reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture becomes saucelike, 10 to 15 minutes. (At this point, you can cover the soup and set it aside for several hours.)
• Add the monkfish and raise the heat to mediumhigh. When the mixture begins to boil, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is just about tender, 10 minutes or so.
• Add the clams, raise the heat to high, and stir; when the mixture boils, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the clams begin to open, 5 to 10 minutes.
• Add the scallops and cod, stir, and cover; cook, stirring gently once or twice, until the cod is just about done (a thin-bladed knife will pierce it with little resistance), about 5 minutes. If the mixture is very thick—there should be some broth—add a cup or so of hot water. Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Stir in the parsley and serve, with crusty bread and a dollop of the aïoli if you’re using it.

MAKES: 8 servings

TIME: 1 hour