Turkey Thighs in Almond Mole

The most exciting turkey dish I’ve had in the last twenty years was both completely traditional and as far from the Thanksgiving spirit as you could imagine. That’s because the tradition was Oaxacan and the turkey was in a mole sauce. Many moles use dozens of ingredients and odd techniques (like burning) and take days to make. Others, like this almond-based example, are easy enough for a weeknight and, when it comes to producing a flavorful dish without too much trouble, far more reliable than the roasted holiday bird.

2 dried ancho or other mild chiles

1/4 cup neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn

1 teaspoon minced fresh chile, like jalapeño or serrano, or to taste, or hot red pepper flakes or cayenne, to taste

1 large white onion, chopped

1 cup almonds

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 large cloves garlic, peeled, or more to taste

3 or 4 tomatoes, cored and chopped (about 3 cups)

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Pinch ground cloves

1 tablespoon dry red wine or other vinegar, or to taste

2 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade or as needed

4 turkey thighs, about 3 pounds

Slivered almonds for garnish (optional)

• Soak the anchos in hot water to cover. When they’re softened, after 15 to 30 minutes, remove their stems and seeds. Put half the oil in a deep skillet with a lid or a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the fresh chile and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion begins to soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the almonds, some salt, at least 1/2 teaspoon pepper, the garlic, tomatoes, cinnamon, cloves, soaked ancho chiles, vinegar, and enough stock to keep moist and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes begin to break up, about 10 minutes.
• Cool slightly (or for several hours), then purée in a blender. Taste and add more salt, pepper, or vinegar if you like. (You can refrigerate the purée for up to a day before continuing.)
• Put the remaining oil in the skillet over mediumhigh heat. When hot, then add the turkey, skin side down. Sprinkle it with salt and pepper and, a couple of minutes later (it’s not important that it brown well), pour the puréed sauce over it. Adjust the heat so the mixture simmers steadily when covered and cook, checking the heat occasionally and turning the pieces once or twice, until the thighs are very tender, about an hour.
• Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning. Garnish with almonds if you like and serve hot.

MAKES: 6 or more servings

TIME: About 11/2 hours, somewhat unattended