Warm Asparagus Custards with Tarragon Vinaigrette

For the custards

• ½ pound asparagus
• Salt
• A little softened butter for greasing the ramekins
• 2 large eggs
• 2 large egg yolks
• ½ cup whipping cream
• Maldon sea salt
• Freshly ground white pepper

For the vinaigrette

• 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• Salt
• Freshly ground pepper
• 2 tablespoons sunflower oil
• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 teaspoons minced tarragon leaves

Trim the stalk ends of the asparagus and peel the lower part of the stems, then cut the spears into short lengths. Cook them in boiling, well-salted water until a touch more than just tender, drain, and immediately plunge into a bowl of water chilled with plenty of ice cubes. Leave until quite cold, then lift out and carefully, but thoroughly, dry in a dish towel. The asparagus will then be ready to use.

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Butter four ramekins and line the base of each with a tiny disk of waxed paper.

Put the cooked asparagus into a blender with the eggs and egg yolks and puree until really smooth. Pour into a fine strainer suspended over a bowl and, with aid of a small ladle, force through as much mixture as possible. Stir the cream into the puree until well mixed and season with a little salt and pepper to taste. Pour the mixture into the prepared ramekins, filling them to just below the brim.

Cover each with a circle of foil and place in a deep baking dish. Pour tap-hot water into the dish until it comes at least three-quarters of the way up the sides of the molds. Bake in the oven for 25 to 30 minutes, or until just firm to the touch. Leave to cool until warm, but no cooler.

Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette. Simply mix together the vinegar, mustard, and seasoning in a small bowl, then whisk in the oils until emulsified (add a tiny splash of hot water to aid this, if you like). Stir in the tarragon.

To serve, spoon a little of the vinaigrette onto the surface of each custard. Eat with strips of hot buttered toast.