A superbly simple recipe, worthy of a free-range or organically raised chicken.
• 1 x 1.5 kg (3 lb) roasting chicken;
• 4 spring onions, left whole;
• 1 knob fresh ginger;
• 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns;
• 4 sprigs celery leaves;
• 2 teaspoons salt;
• 3 tablespoons light soy sauce;
• 1 tablespoon sesame oil.

• Remove any obvious fat from the cavity of the chicken and rinse the bird well. With a sharp knife cut off the tail including the two fat glands just above it, which the Chinese say give an undesirable odour to the meat. Put the chicken in a pot just large enough to hold it. Add cold water to cover the chicken, then remove the chicken and bring the water to a boil with the spring onions, ginger, peppercorns, celery leaves and salt.
• Put a stainless-steel spoon into the cavity of the chicken to conduct heat. Gently lower the chicken into the pot, breast down, and let the water return to a simmer. Cover the pot with a well-fitting lid and simmer for 20 minutes, then turn off the heat and leave for 40 minutes without lifting the lid so that it continues to cook in the stored heat.
• Have ready a large pan or bowl with cold water and at least 3 trays of ice cubes in it. Remove the chicken from the hot liquid, drain liquid from the cavity and remove the spoon. (Be careful when draining liquid from cavity that it goes back into the pan and not over your hand.) Try to accomplish this without damaging the skin of the bird. Ensure that the chicken is completely immersed in the water and ice, and chill for 15 minutes. Drain the chicken, place in a large bowl and refrigerate, covered, for at least 3 hours. The chilling results in a layer of jellied stock under the skin of the chicken, so when serving remove meat from bones carefully, keeping the skin intact. Or chop the chicken through the bones into bite-sized pieces and arrange on a platter. To keep the jellied stock intact, cover and chill until serving time.
• Make a dipping sauce with the soy sauce and sesame oil, and serve with the chicken.

Serves 6

The simplest, most straightforward poached chicken dish there is, popular throughout China and in some Chinese restaurants here in the States. Almost always served at room temperature, it’s tender and flavorful with nothing more than soy sauce, but it’s legit (and, I think, even better) with Ginger-Scallion Sauce . Save the cooking liquid for soup stock.

5 or 6 slices fresh ginger (don’t bother to peel)

5 scallions, chopped

2 star anise

2 tablespoons salt

2 tablespoons sugar

1 whole chicken, 3 to 4 pounds, trimmed of excess fat

• Combine all the ingredients except the chicken in a large pot with 8 cups water. (Make sure you have enough room at the top to make room for the chicken.)
• Bring to a boil over high heat. Put the chicken in the pot, breast side up, and bring the water back to a boil. Turn the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes.
• Remove from the heat and then let the chicken sit in the water for another 10 minutes or so; the bird is done when an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 155–165°F.
• Remove the chicken from the pot, cool to room temperature, and cut into serving pieces Serve with soy sauce and Ginger-Scallion Sauce, or cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 40 minutes, largely unattended